Saturday, January 14, 2012

More about the Teal Triangle

In a comment, okie2thfairy asked if I could show in more detail what I was talking about when I mentioned "improving" the pattern for my Teal Jakku with triangle insets at the shoulder.

To remind you, here is the completed front shoulder.

Below is a picture of the pieces, before assembly, that were made according to the pattern.

The textured piece is knitted as a long curving rectangle (made with short rows so that the outer edge is longer than the inner edge).  After the piece is seamed, it forms a donut-shaped piece.  The short edge is then sewn to the lower edge of the upper back piece (so it forms the lower back), to the armscye of the sleeves, and then up towards the back neck edge where it forms the collar.

The back - I'm hoping that the slight ripples
relax when the sweater is washed...
The pattern, as written, instructed you to attach the piece along the front edge of the sleeve cap to the shoulder point, and then along the entire top edge of the upper back piece, which is a straight line that runs from shoulder point to shoulder point.

marked up with Skitch
a great free app for iPad
If  I had followed those instructions, the collar piece would have had to detour into a corner which would pull it out of shape.  In the picture to the right I show the corner and the direction in which the edge of the collar piece would have to be forced to fit.

In this photo of the front of this jacket on the Finnish pattern site, you can (I think) see the distorting effect on the upper front and collar.  The shawl collar is forced open sideways and the fronts have a harder time meeting in the centre.  I suspect that the jacket would be less comfortable to wear as that piece would be fighting to return to its knitted-in shape.

So I made two little triangular pieces to fill in the shoulder corner, and avoid distorting the collar.  The result is that the collar hugs my neck, is very cozy, and the whole sweater feels wonderfully comfortable.


  1. Wow! It seems really hard to make this teal jacket! Great work ^____^

    My little blog about sewing and much more:

  2. That jacket is *so* beautiful, Kay! Your improvement looks so natural, it looks planned.

  3. That's a pretty hardcore, though totally practical, alteration! And a perfect solution on a garment that's knit flat.

  4.'re a brilliant knitting-sewing lawyer!!!

  5. Clearly a great solution to a poorly-designed shoulder (IMHO). What a great-looking sweater!

  6. Great modification on the sweater! I wonder if the designer has very narrow shoulders and the sweater was designed to fit their shape? Another possibility is they did it on purpose so the neckline stayed more open, instead of closing more as yours does? If that was the case, it seems to me that the same effect could be done with more shaping on the collar instead of pulling at it. Then again, I'm still at the learning to knit stage so I may be totally wrong on that last one.

  7. Great alternative for the shoulders -- sewing/pattern-drafting skills to the rescue! What a fabulous sweater (plus matching cloche)!

  8. Congratulations! Great save, your sweater looks much more attractive and wearable than the original photo.